Peptides in skincare: what they are and which ones matter
Peptides in skincare are short chains of amino acids added to cosmetics to support the appearance of skin and hair. The two you will meet most often are copper peptides, such as Copper Tripeptide-1, used for the look of firmness and fuller hair, and expression line peptides, such as SNAP-8, used for the look of smoother skin.
What is a peptide?
Amino acids are the small units that proteins are built from. String a long chain of them together and you have a protein, such as collagen or keratin. String a short chain together, usually between two and fifty, and you have a peptide.
Cosmetic chemists like peptides because they are small, can be designed for a specific job, and are generally well tolerated on skin.
What are the main types used in cosmetics?
Copper peptides carry a copper ion. Copper Tripeptide-1, also written GHK-Cu, is the best known, and is used in serums, moisturisers and haircare for the look of firmer skin and fuller hair.
Expression line peptides are designed for the look of lines that form where the face moves, around the eyes and forehead. SNAP-8, listed as Acetyl Octapeptide-3, is one of the most widely used.
Signal peptides are a broad family often paired with moisturising ingredients, and are usually found in creams aimed at the look of firmness.
How do you spot peptides on an ingredients list?
Look for the word peptide in the ingredient name, often with a number: Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. The prefix tells you roughly how many amino acids are in the chain.
Ingredients are listed in order of quantity, so a peptide named near the top is present in a more meaningful amount than one right at the end.
Can you use more than one peptide?
Yes. Peptides are generally happy together, which is why multi peptide products exist. Our Multi Peptide serum and moisturiser pair Copper Tripeptide-1 with SNAP-8 in a single step.
The more useful question is consistency. One peptide product used every day for eight weeks will tell you more than three used occasionally.
Common questions
Are peptides good for your skin?
For most people they are a well tolerated addition to a routine. They are cosmetic ingredients that support the appearance of skin, and they do not typically cause the dryness associated with stronger actives such as retinol.
What is the difference between peptides and collagen?
Collagen is a large protein. Peptides are much shorter chains of amino acids. Collagen in a cream mainly moisturises the surface, while cosmetic peptides are chosen for a specific job, such as the look of firmness or smoother lines.
Are skincare peptides natural?
Some occur naturally in the body, including Copper Tripeptide-1, but the peptides used in cosmetics are made in a laboratory to a consistent standard. That consistency is what makes them usable in a formula.
Related guides
- What are copper peptides? A plain English guide
- What is SNAP-8? The expression line peptide explained
- GHK-Cu explained: the copper peptide in skincare
Cosmetic products for external use only. Copper peptide products support the appearance of skin and hair. They are cosmetics, not medicines.